by contributor Donna Shor
Sixty wine and food lovers gathered at the Taberna del Alabardero recently to celebrate rare wines (more about that later) and an even rarer vintner, David Sampedro Gil. (pictured above)
He is only 36 years old, but has become known as a degreed and admired oenologist and consultant throughout the bodegas of La Rioja (where he lives in his home town) and Navarre, where he also owns vineyards. Since 2003 he has persevered in his quest to keep producing praiseworthy wines that are modestly priced.
With loyalty to Navarre, he dons the white shirt and pants, red sash and red scarf of the runners of the encierro, that July explosion of rushing men and surging bulls that thunders through the streets of Pamplona each year. At the same time, he is a biodynamist, with that regulated-but-NewAge biodynamic approach to both agricultural methods and lifestyle that encourages a philosophical outlook..
With his methods of grape cultivation and vinification, he creates good wines for tiny prices, usually under $15 a bottle, unusual for this quality, though his higher range wines such as Phinca Lali and Phinca Abejera sell for many times that figure.
Wines at the dinner were not old rare old bottles, but rather were young ones rare because they are almost completely sold out; he had only 30 bottles left for himself of one wine that was served.
David and his pretty wife, Melanie Hickman, who accompanied him to the dinner, live in their Rioja village of 200, with frequent trips to major cities for his wines. He commented on the varied bottles as they were poured, and answered questions from diners who clearly appreciated the chance to talk to the man who created them.
At dinner the wines were shown to their best advantage by sommelier Gustavo Iniesto and by the dishes chef Javier Romero created.
Things began with three tapas, a gazpacho cherry shot, a deconstructed caprese salad topped by fried-crisp basil leaves, and “chanquetes fritos” These are the crunchy, tiny whole whitebait that figure as a treat all over Europe at fairs and festivals.With these was a fresh, crisp Rioja, Cortijo Blanco 2011.
Accompanying the next course was a true rosé, which is made in limited amounts in the Rioja,. a Cortijo Rosado 2011 from the Grenache grape (garnacha in Spain.). It paired well with lobster, scallops and yellow peppers.
Roasted suckling pig Segovia-style was next, with bottles of a 2009 Rioja”in the Bordeaux style usual in this region. bottled as Brozal Following this was the playfully named “Chupa-chup de Codorniz,” a quail leg “lollipop,” with black sausage and creamy rice, served with another red Rioja, his “Phinca Lali” 2008. This premium wine, which he named after his mother, from Tempranillo grapes, the basic wine of this area, and Spain’s favorite grape, with added blend wines.
The grilled buffalo filet, in a sauce of wine, onions, peppers and blue cheese was enhanced by a superb Rioja, named Phinca Abejera 2008, with strong berry attributes, just as the wine above, with the same grape blend.
There was barely enough room for a dessert of pecan ice cream with a luscious almond sauce crowned with dried fruits and nuts. The rich dessert wine Bellum El Remate 2006, served with it is from Yecla, a unique wine area not only because it is grown over 2000 feet above sea level, but the appellation Yecla applies to only one municipality.
It proved a marvelous finish before everyone waddled home..
