by contributor Donna Shor
Photo credit: Neshan H. Naltchayan
Renowned for its frequent sumptuous wine dinners, La Taberna del Alaberdero outdid itself at its all-out Master of Wine dinner.
At the classic Spanish restaurant, Executive Chef Javier Romero and Sommelier Gustavo Iniesta created a fine pairing of dishes to match the outstanding wines presented by Colin Gent, manager of Eurovines who commented on the wines he brought, assisted by Laurent Givry, CEO of Elite Wines.
Master of Wine Colin Gent, Executive Chef Javier Romero and Sommelier Gustavo Iniesta
Gent, a Master of Wine, is one of only 300 individuals in the world who have earned that title by acing a series of rigorous tests that measure knowledge of wine from every aspect, vine to bottle to the palate. The candidate, after completing three years of self-guided study, must pass such hurdles as blind tastings of twelve wines that require 300 word written assessments each plus a closely reasoned research paper. Failure rate is high and after three misses a candidate must wait three years to try again.
Colin Gent
Preceding the dinner a redolent fino sherry, Manzanilla Papirusa D.O. of Jerez, was served with hors d’oeuvres of sherried pheasant consommé. Then tiny hollowed-out potatoes stuffed with oxtail morsels appeared; and next, passed on curved –handled spoons, came Kokochas, delicate cod cheeks in a smooth and garlicky sauce.
Colin Gent
Dinner began with a First Appetizer of crab cake salad, with a Monopole 2012 Viura D.O.Ca. Rioja, light gold with greenish glints, from one of Spain’s oldest vintners; fresh and crisp, with hints of minerality.
Pedro Schoch and Almudena Lopez
Second Appetizer brought Pollo en Pepitoria, a succulent chicken with almond dish, teamed with a medium-bodied red with a hint of cassis on the palate. It was a Viña Real Reserva D.O.Ca Rioja that Gent pointed out came from the favored Alavesa part of the Rioja region. It accompanied the chicken well, but could agreeably go with any number of dishes.
Second Appetizer: Pollo en Pepitoria
The First Course ushered in a slow-braised Osso Bucco that practically brought the 40 diners to their collective feet—it was that delicious. Several said later it was the most memorable version they had ever eaten. Osso Bucco translates literally as the “bone with the hole” and guests digging into the marrow bone with the tiny, requisite marrow spoon found a liquor-infused treat, with the whole crowned with a diced sweetbread and foie gras sauce.
First course: Ossobuco estofado, Salsa de Mollejas y Foie
The accompanying wine was a many-faceted Abadia Retuarta Seleccion Especial 2009 Tempranillo V.d.T Castilla y Leon. From Spain’s native Tempranillo grape, as are many of the finest wines from this north-central part of the country, this one featured a wide spectrum of pronounced dark fruit, with velvety tannins and a long finish. To this drinker, it was an almost understated wine, one that expands in the memory.
As if all that weren’t enough, the Main Course arrived, a fine loin of venison over an artful rice dish studded with tiny bits of morcella sausage, just enough to impart its dark spicy richness while keeping the dish “Suave” as the menuchosae to say.
Executive Chef Javier Romero (center) prepares the main course dishes
Main course: Lomo de Venado sobre Arroz suave de Morcilla
The venison was spot on perfect, and the wine that paired with it was bold enough to match. The Mauro 2010 Tempranillo V.dT. Castilla y Leon was king-size, a big red with a big nose that held its own and then some. It was made to marry this venison loin.
Amy Brooks, Shem Hassen of Arrow Wine & Cheese and Orlando Santos
At dessert, the chef had a little fun with us, presenting his jokingly named “Cheese Plate.” The next line in the menu called it a Torta de San Marco, St Mark’s Sponge Cake in a Glass. A shimmering smooth, almost plastic looking plate of cooked sugar topped a moist delight. All that and an East India Solera, D.O. Jerez, a sweet but balanced sherry, its name harking back to olden days when it was thought that the long trip to the Indies enhanced the casks of sherry in the hold.
At wine dinners, many attendees are interested in sampling “finds,” excellent wines at affordable prices that they can enjoy at home—and many of the wines presented at this dinner by have earned quite high ratings in the wine journals, and are actually just a few pegs lower than wines costing much, much more. That is always an added value in a wine dinner—and the food is great, too!
